Hyderabad, the Scottish historian William Dalrymple wrote, hides “its charms from the eyes of outsiders, veiling its splendors from curious eyes behind nondescript walls and labyrinthine backstreets.†But some secrets, like Hyderabad's sinfully rich food, perhaps its greatest charm, are hard to keep. And the month of Ramadan is ideal for discovering the city's most indulgent dishes.
A graceful, 400-year-old city, Hyderabad's aristocratic order has given way to wealth born of industry, real estate and entrepreneurship. Once it became the capital of Andhra Pradesh, families from the traditionally Hindu coastal belts to the east populated the infertile, rocky city; then, with the boom in software and outsourcing, people began pouring in from all over India seeking jobs. Today's Hyderabad is a curious mix of Hindu and Muslim, of native and settler, of old and new.
But the month of Ramadan, known as Ramzan in India, off ers a peek into the city's culinary past. When dusk arrives during Ramadan, with a shrill siren that signals the end of fasting, the narrow streets of Hyderabad's old city fill up fast with vendors, shoppers and food buffs. What awaits the hungry are simmering pots of biryani with a distinctly Hyderabadi flavor; endless bowls of haleem - a thick, spicy paste of lamb and wheat, cooked to perfection; dried apricots and fresh cream served together as the wildly popular qubani-ka-meetha; and other flavors that carry the richness of a sultan's sumptuous meal although they have been prepared in humbler kitchens.
Obscure restaurants light up their signboards promising the city's best haleem â€" certainly the most sought-after dish at this time, partly because it's not easily available for the rest of the year.
Mr. Dalrymple himself has recommended Salim, “the best biryani cook in Hyderabad,†in the opening pages of “White Mughals.†A decade after the book's publication, Mr. Salim is hard to find, but there's still plenty to choose from.
Hotel Shadab, a small, locally loved restaurant, is at its hopping best during Ramadan. Started in 1990, it has since added an air-conditioned upper floor for “ladies and families.†Rumored to serve the best haleem and biryani in town, the menu also offers fresh, soft loaves of sheermal and a decadent qubani-ka-meetha. The delicately flavored Pakistani chicken curry is a must.
Four Seasons, a restaurant that should not be confused with the luxurious hotel chain of the same name, is best known for its kebabs and biryani. But during Ramadan, its haleem, slightly spicier than most, is a hit. Fresh garlic naan goes best with the haleem. The almond kheer â€" milk, rice and sugar boiled together and seasoned with saffron and almonds â€" is a treat.
Pista House, Shah Ghouse, Sarvi and 555 are all famous for their haleem, doing a roaring business during Ram adan, as one can see from the line of vehicles waiting for takeaway orders.
The venerable Nizam Club is restricted to members only, but it brings so much to the table that it deserves a mention, especially during Ramadan. Few can cook biryani and haleem better than the chefs at this 128-year-old club established by the prime minister in Hyderabad's erstwhile royal court. And nowhere else can you find some of the dishes on offer here, like dalcha, a sambar of meat and lentils flavored with tamarind, or the spicy, tangy mutton chutney.
But if you happen to find yourself in the city during Ramadan, do try and snag an invitation for an iftar, the evening meal after the fast is broken, or lunch on Id-al-Fitr, the day that marks the end of Ramadan, which falls on Aug. 18 this year. Hyderabad's best restaurants notwithstanding, nothing can compare to a home-cooked meal. And it's the best way to taste some of the more painstaking dishes, like sheer korma, a steaming pudd ing of milk and vermicelli, peppered with dates, which is considered an Id delicacy.
