A Curry Club in Uptown Manhattan

Courtesy of Jones Wood FoundryThe Chicken Tikka Masala dish served at Curry Club.

While studying in London for a semester while I was in college, I spent quite a bit of my downtime at pubs, where along with the obligatory pint, I would usually order the Indian curry, which was available on every menu.

The slightly sweet, pungent and often creamy renditions packed in flavor but were light on spiciness and were accompanied by sides like nut and plain rices, sugary mango chutneys and even toasted baguettes. They were nothing like the Indian food I knew, and later, when I returned to the United States and had cravings for this pub dish, I learned these curries were a uniquely British phenomenon.

In New York, British expats' complaints about how much they missed this Anglo-Indian staple inspired the creation of the Curry Club, which will start at Jones Food Foundry, an Upper East Side restaurant and pub, in November. (The restaurant, like much of upper Manhattan, remains fully functional after this week's storm).

Saira Malhotra, a 36-year-old food writer and cooking teacher from the Hounslow area in London, came up with the idea for the Curry Club and approached Jason Hicks, the chef and co-owner of Jones Food Foundry, with her proposal. Mr. Hicks, who is from Birmingham, England, said he was immediately interested.

“I grew up on British curry back home, and I challenge you to find a Brit who has never had Indian food,” said Mr. Hicks, 40. “I've always wanted to bring an authentic cultural experience to this neighborhood, and this is it.”

Ms. Malhotra will create a different c urry every Monday night in November for $23. After the month is over, Mr. Hicks plans on integrating them into the permanent menu.

Courtesy of Jones Wood FoundryThe Goan Shrimp dish served at Curry Club.

During a late September visit to Ms. Malhotra's apartment in New York, she was trying out recipes for the club, including a lamb bhuna, with pine nut pilaf and parmesan paratha, and Goan shrimp with saffron pilaf, a sliced baguette and mango salsa.

The British touches stood out: the lamb, for example, got a sear before going into the curry, and a hint of coconut milk was added for richness. “I gave the meat a Western treatment because searing it gives it a nice cru st and adds a depth of flavor,” she said.

The coconut milk addition was also unusual for a non-Goan dish. The shrimp, meanwhile, had string beans in it, which is also very un-Indian. With the exception of potatoes, vegetables usually aren't incorporated into nonvegetarian cuisine.

Curry was introduced in Britain through the East India Company and came to broadly mean any saucy or spicy Indian dish, and has little to do with authentic Indian food. “British curry does not necessarily reflect the rich and nuanced spice mixture and sauces from the vast regions of South Asia,” said Sarah K. Khan, a food and culture ethnobotanist.

Pub curry must be paired with beer, and so for the Curry Club, Mr. Hicks plans on offering a few brands of Indian pale ale, a beer that was first brewed in England in the 19th century, as well as Indian wines like a shiraz by Sula.

The Curry Club will be held on Nov. 5, 12, 19 and 26. Jones Wood Foundry is located at 401 E. 76th Street, between First and York, 212-249-2700.