During this holy month of Ramadan (or Ramzan, as it is called in India), when the sun sets, Old Delhi awakens to a slew of delectable aromas and crowded markets as excited Muslim families break their fast with a feast known as iftar. A majority of the families prepare traditional delicacies in their homes and head out to the Jama Masjid, the principal mosque of the area, to eat in its gigantic courtyard. Many others throng the narrow lanes to feast after their fast.
“We are open 24/7 during Ramzan,†said Waseem Ahmed, who makes an assortment of sweets at his tiny shop, Sweets, on the street opposite Jama Masjid's Gate No. 1. Mr. Ahmed, 38, said firni, or rice pudding, is the favorite of the season.
Old Delhi is famous for its ghee-rich Mughlai cuisine, and certain restaurants like Karim's are flooded with customers throughout the year. However, this lively neighborhood is also famous for lighter dishes that are spec ially made for Ramadan. Murmura (black bengal grams sauteed in masala, tomatoes, onions and coriander and served with puffed rice) and small fruit cups are sold at street corners. “These are easy to digest and quick to eat at the end of a day of fasting,†said Ramit Mitra, founder of Delhi By Foot, who takes groups on Iftar Walks around the old town.
Muslims eat before sunrise and fast the entire day until sunset. To keep them going throughout the day, they have a substantial early morning meal. The most popular early morning dish is called nihari (“nahar†means “day†in Arabic), a stew of goat meat or beef. The most famous nihari comes from Shahzad Dhaba, commonly known as Javed Nihari.
“I love Ramzans because of Javed Nihari,†Shameem Pasha, a regular at Shahzad Dhaba, exclaimed through a mouthful of nihari. A meal costs less than 100 rupees ($1.80) per plate. The eatery opens around 7 p.m, but it closes after runnin g out of food, usually around 8:30 p.m. It then reopens around 2 a.m. until dawn.
While areas like Old Delhi and Zakir Nagar hardly have a dull night during Ramadan, another neighborhood that specializes in Mughlai food sees a slump in sales. There is nothing wrong with the food in Nizamuddin Basti, but the food vendors here experience low sales because the nearby dargah, or shrine, doles out free food during Ramadan.
“There is a straight 25 percent dip,†said Mohammad Israr, who has been selling haleem biryani (made of wheat, barley, mutton or chicken, lentils and spices) from his cart for 38 years. People of the basti seemed to love his haleem biryani, although it is quite a stingy serving for 20 rupees.
Seviyan, thin vermicelli served with hot milk, and khajla, a deep-fried bread eaten with milk, are the sweet dishes Muslims crave the most during Ramadan. “When I begin to feast on khajla, I rarely stop,†said Iftekar, a resident of Zakir Nagar wh o goes by one name. He explained how his 11 brothers and sisters waited for this time of the year to stuff themselves with khajla and seviyan.
Many in Old Delhi believe that the charm of Ramadan culinary treats is greatest when they are enjoyed on street corners with old friends over a dose of noisy chatter. But for those who prefer quiet enjoyment, there are fine-dining restaurants like the time-tested Delhi Darbar in Connaught Place or the new Half Way House in Kailash Colony. Both these places have special iftar menus and are open till midnight. An average meal for two in these restaurants would cost around 1,500 rupees.
To top off the heavy food with some traditional drinks completes the nightlong feast. “I enjoyed the flavored milk with dry fruits, saffron, pistachios and cardamom,†said Mr. Mitra of Delhi By Foot, as well as cold sherbets, like milk with watermelon and Rooh Afza, a packaged drink made from herbs and fruits.
